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OCT Frankel

Make it ‘swicy’

I am not a chili-head! I do enjoy a gentle “poke” of heat from mild chilies and use them in some recipes, but I do not seek out the palate-blasting, endorphin rush-inducing, eye watering, thrill of high-Scoville-scale hot sauces.

But for me there is a relatively new chili in town, and I love it. These chilis are special. Their delicious, fruity, and slightly smoky flavor is not overwhelmed by heat. They are more “toasty” than hot.

Calabrian chilies are from southern Italy. They are grown in the Calabria region where the soil, climate, and terroir (character and taste imparted by environment) produce a chili pepper that has medium heat (like a jalapeno). Fruity Calabrian chilies add a bit of heat without bitterness. Most chilis are bitter and very spicy.

Even if you do not like chilies, many recipes can benefit from a small, or large, amount of this chili. Great dishes are a balancing act of sweet, sour, savory, salty, and spicy or bitter. Adding a touch of spice without bitterness is a great way to balance dishes.

Calabrian chilies are delicate and since they are grown only in Calabria, they are sold jarred, either chopped or whole, packed in olive oil. Look for them near the olives in your favorite grocery store.

Use these fruity chilies in the sweet;’ and spicy–or “swicy”–recipes below. You can also add them as a topper for eggs; as a schmear for grilled cheese; to perk up pasta sauce or pizza sauce; to spice nuts; for warm-lemony-spicy olives; as a drizzle over veggies; with olive oil over fish; brushed on chicken with honey; for popcorn; in vinaigrettes–and more!

These recipes will keep you toasty throughout the colder months.

Swicy Braised Chicken with White Beans

This hearty cold-weather dish is a little kicky, a little sweet, and simply delicious. Perfect for a Sukkah meal, game-day dinner, busy school-night dinner, or Shabbat lunch.

This Mediterranean diet meal is healthy and family friendly. I like to garnish with a citrusy gremolata, which lifts the dish and adds brightness to each bite.

Serves 4-5

Extra virgin olive oil (EVOO)

Sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper

8 bone-in and skin-on chicken thighs

1 medium yellow onion, sliced thinly

2 red peppers, sliced thinly

8 cloves garlic, sliced very thinly

1 cup tomato puree

1 tablespoon chopped Calabrian chilies

3 tablespoons honey

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

1 cup dry white wine (Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Grigio)

2 cups chicken stock (purchased or homemade)

3 15-ounce cans Cannellini beans

1 bouquet garni of fresh rosemary sprigs, thyme sprigs, and parsley stems tied with a celery rib
Preheat oven to 350F

1. Heat a large sauté pan or Dutch oven, lightly coated with EVOO, over medium heat.
2. Season chicken with salt and pepper. Brown chicken until caramelized and dark brown. Remove chicken. Drain off excess fat.

3. Sauté onion and peppers until lightly caramelized and soft.
4. Add garlic and continue cooking for a few minutes before adding tomato puree, Calabrian chilies, honey, red wine vinegar, wine, stock, beans, and bouquet garni. Stir to combine.
5. Add chicken back to the pan. Cover and braise in preheated oven for 45 minutes.

6. Remove cover and continue cooking until most of the liquid has been absorbed and the mixture is thick. Remove bouquet garni and discard.

7. Sprinkle with gremolata (see below) before serving.

Gremolata

Bright, garlicky, and herby gremolata is my favorite way to add tons of flavor to any and every dish.

Zest of 1 lemon

Zest of 1 orange

2 cloves garlic, finely grated on a microplane

2 tablespoons EVOO

½ cup finely chopped flat leaf parsley

½ teaspoon chopped Calabrian chiles (optional)

Pinch of sea salt

1. Stir together zest, garlic, EVOO, parsley, chilies, and salt.

Crispy Chile-Maple Brussels Sprouts

Brussels sprouts are autumn on a plate. They are bitter, sweet, and savory all at once, and in season in late fall. Glazed with sweet maple and a touch of Calabrian chili heat, they become addictive and obsession worthy. This glaze is great on cauliflower, broccoli, green beans, grilled lettuce, and anything that needs a pick-me-up.

Serves 4-5

1 pound brussels sprouts

2 tablespoons EVOO

Sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper

3 tablespoons good quality maple syrup

3 teaspoons chopped Calabrian chilies

1 garlic clove, grated on a microplane.

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper, preheat oven to 425°F

1. Peel off outer leaves of brussels sprouts and discard. Cut sprouts in half or quarters if they are large. Toss with EVOO, salt, and pepper.

2. Arrange on lined baking sheet. Roast for 20 minutes, stirring once about ½ way through.

3. Drizzle sauce over sprouts and stir to coat thoroughly. Return to oven and continue roasting for just another 2-3 minutes (they can burn quickly).

4. Serve immediately.

Sweet and Spicy Popcorn

Snacks that are complexly flavored are fun and addictive. This mouth-tingling caramel corn is my go-to snack. Perfect for movie night, game day, or any time.

Makes about 10 cups

¼ cup melted butter or EVOO

¾ cup brown sugar

¼ cup maple syrup

1 tablespoon chopped Calabrian chilies

10 cups popped popcorn

1 cup mini salted pretzels

1 cup dry roasted cashews

1 cup dry roasted salted peanuts

Preheat oven to 300°F. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper.

1. Heat butter or EVOO in a large saucepan set over medium heat.

2. Add brown sugar, maple syrup, Sriracha, and salt. Bring to a boil, swirling pan to combine.

3. When sugar has dissolved, boil for 2 minutes. Remove from heat.

4. In a large bowl, toss the brown sugar caramel with popcorn, pretzels, cashews, and peanuts. Spread evenly on prepared baking sheets.

5. Bake, stirring occasionally, for 20 minutes or until caramel has set.

6. Cool completely and break into clusters.

Store, covered tightly, in a cool dry place for 3 days.

Laura Frankel–a noted kosher chef, and cookbook author–serves as Director of Culinary Operations at CJE SeniorLife-Tamarisk NorthShore. She is also a Product Development Specialist and has worked as Culinary Director for a media company.