Stay in to make take-out faves

Think winter is the end of fresh veggies? Possibilities abound with cruciferous globes of… cabbage! From hearty entrees to soups and sides, cabbage is your year-round bestie.

Cabbage also is my go-to in winter. I know I can always have dinner when there is cabbage. I like red and green, as well as Savoy– a sweet, mild cabbage with ruffled, less-dense leaves. I also love Bok Choy, a Chinese cabbage delicious in stir-fries, spring rolls and salads.

Raw cabbage leaves can absorb spicy vinaigrettes, creamy mayo-based sauces for slaw, and tangy splashes of citrus for refreshing your palate after a bite of Thai, Chinese, or other spicy cuisines.

Inexpensive, long lasting, and endlessly versatile, a humble head of cabbage is a powerhouse of nutrition: fiber, vitamins C and K, phytosterols (for lowering blood pressure) and antioxidants (which lower inflammation).

I grew up eating neighborhood Chinese take-out– eggrolls, fried rice, noodles, and stir-fries. But now, I sometimes opt for healthier make-at-home Chinese take-out style food.

And cabbage is a major player in many such dishes, adding flavor and texture. These recipes are fun, comfy-homey, a little bit kitschy, and easily adaptable. Using just a few simple ingredients and lots of cabbage, you can bring the flavors of take-out to your home kitchen.

Mushroom and Cabbage Spring Rolls

I love shatteringly-crunchy spring rolls. Homemade spring rolls are easy, fun to make, and endlessly versatile. Add leftover chicken, brisket, or veggies. Bring the heat with Thai chilies. Have fun with a variety of dipping sauces. These spring rolls can be made ahead, and frozen for up to 3 months.

Yield: 24 spring rolls

2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil

1 large carrot, shredded on large side of box grater

6 shiitake dried mushrooms

8 ounces fresh shiitake mushrooms or combination of favorite mushrooms (stems removed), sliced thinly

½ head of Napa cabbage, cut into chiffonade (fine ribbons)

1 cup shredded bok choy

3 cloves garlic, minced

4 ounces very firm tofu, patted dry

2 teaspoons Chinese five-spice powder

¼ best quality soy sauce, whisked with 1 tablespoon brown sugar

24 spring roll skins

3 cups peanut oil or other oil for frying

1 cup sweet chili sauce for dipping

Line a sheet pan with several layers of paper towels or a brown paper bag

For the filling:

1. Soak dried mushrooms in very hot water for 20 minutes, strain, and slice mushrooms

2. Heat a wok or large sauté pan over very high heat

3. Add oil and almost immediately add carrot, cabbage, bok choy, and mushrooms. Stir until browned and cabbage has wilted significantly.

4. Add garlic, scallions, tofu and spices. Continue cooking for just a few minutes until garlic has become fragrant. Toss with soy sauce mixture.

5. Cool completely

Making the rolls:

6. Lay one wrapper down with a corner pointed towards you. Add about 3 tablespoons of filling to the lower third of the wrapper, keeping it in a nice, tight row. Roll from the bottom corner towards the top, keeping everything tight. Roll until nearly halfway up, then stop.

7. The next step is to fold the left and right corners towards the center. Start by first pressing in on the edges of the filling with your fingertips to make sure it’s packed tight. Fold the corners towards the center, keeping everything tight. Moistening the edges of the wrapper with a bit of water will help it stick to itself and keep its shape. You want the bottom edge to form a 90° angle with the new edge you’ve just created by folding over the corner.

8. After both corners have been folded in, continue rolling towards the top of the paper. Moisten the top corner of the wrapper with a bit of water and continue rolling until the entire “package” is sealed. Repeat with remaining rolls until all the filling is used up. You can freeze spring rolls at this point and cook directly from the freezer, or continue to the next step.

9. Heat several cups of oil in a medium saucepan or wok. When oil is 350F, fry 3-4 spring rolls at a time until golden brown. Remove and cool on lined sheet pan.

Serve spring rolls with dipping sauce.

Char-Siu Chicken with Braised Cabbage

Serves 4

8 skin-on, bone-in chicken thighs

Char Siu sauce (recipe follows)

3 tablespoons honey, whisked together with 3 tablespoons water

1. Place thighs in a casserole where can fit in a single layer. Marinate with ½ cup sauce in the fridge for at least 6 hours and up to 1 day. Remove from marinade and discard marinade.

2. Preheat oven to 400F. Roast chicken, brushing with leftover sauce every 10 minutes, until chicken is browned and cooked through, about 30 minutes. Remove from oven and brush with honey mixture. Allow to cool briefly before slicing thinly.

Braised Cabbage

 1 cup dry white wine

½ cup best quality soy sauce

6 dried shiitake mushrooms

1 star anise

3 tablespoons toasted sesame oil

1 head Savoy or green cabbage (Savoy is great here as it is sweeter)

3 cloves garlic, chopped finely

Pinch of white pepper

3 scallions, sliced thinly

1. Heat wine and soy sauce until barely simmering. Add shiitake mushrooms and star anise and allow to soak for 30 minutes before removing mushrooms, discard star anise and reserving soaking liquid.

2. Slice mushrooms thinly and set aside.

3. Slice cabbage in half, and then slice each half into quarters. Discard thick stem portions.

4. Heat oil wok over very high heat. Add cabbage and cook until browned. Turn cabbage, reduce heat and add garlic and sliced mushrooms. Add soaking liquid and cook cabbage until most of the liquid has evaporated. Add scallions. Adjust seasoning with salt if necessary.

5. Serve cabbage with chicken.

Chinese Barbeque Sauce (Char “Siu-ish” Sauce)

I have adapted this sauce for kashrut, and have come close to the flavors of the original. I also omit red food coloring which is used to enhance the color. I use this sauce on chicken, duck, and long, slow-cooked mushrooms.

3 tablespoons grated garlic (I use a microplane)

6 tablespoons brown sugar

6 tablespoons best quality soy sauce

¼ cup dry red wine

¼ cup sherry

¼ cup hoisin sauce

3 tablespoons red miso paste

2 teaspoons Chinese five spice powder

1. Stir garlic, brown sugar, soy, wine, sherry, hoisin, miso, and spices together

Egg Foo Young

So retro, so kitsch, and so delicious! This Chinese-American dish was created to appeal to American palates. I really don’t care! I love it and every now and then, I crave it. How old were you when you realized that Egg Foo Young was just a fried omelet? Just now? Yup! That’s all. An omelet with veggies and perhaps some shredded chicken. But why stop there? Add leftover brisket, corned beef, and/or pastrami! Go wild. This is pure winter comfort food.

Serves 4

For the gravy

1 cup chicken stock or vegetable stock

3 tablespoons quality soy sauce

6 dried shiitake mushrooms

2 cloves, minced

3 tablespoons dry sherry or white wine

2 tablespoons cornstarch

Pinch of Chinese five-spice powder

1.    Bring stock and soy sauce to a simmer. Add mushrooms and turn off the heat. Soak for 20 minutes.

2.    Remove mushrooms, reserve stock mixture. Slice mushrooms.

3.    Bring stock to a simmer. Add mushrooms and garlic to pan.

4.    In a separate bowl, whisk cornstarch with sherry or wine until combined.

5.    Add cornstarch mixture to simmering stock and stir until a thick gravy has formed. Stir in spices.

For the omelets

8 eggs, whisked

1½ cups finely shredded Napa cabbage

½ cup mung bean sprouts

½ cup shredded carrots

1 cup shredded cooked chicken (brisket, corned beef, or pastrami) or stir-fried mushrooms for vegetarian option

¼ cup sliced scallions plus more for garnish

About 1-2 cups peanut or other oil for frying

Line a baking sheet with several layers of paper towels, preheat oven to 350F.

1. Mix eggs, cabbage, sprouts, carrots, chicken or mushrooms, and scallions until combined.

2. Heat oil to the depth of 2 inches in a sauté pan or wok until 350F.

3. Ladle 1/3 cup to form an omelet in oil, add another 1/3 cup to form a second omelet next to the first. Cook until golden brown and eggs are set. Using tongs, carefully flip omelet over to cook the other side. (I use a slotted spoon or fryer mesh to remove omelet and transfer to lined baking sheet.) Keep warm in preheated oven while making remaining omelets.

4. Serve egg foo young with hot gravy and garnish with scallions.

Laura Frankel is the Director of Culinary Services at Tamarisk for CJE SeniorLife, happily creating cozy, comfy dishes with modern and trendy vibes.