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May 2024 Laura Frankel

Green thumb kitchen

Laura Frankel

Sunny, warmer days cry out for fresh, verdant flavors. And, just as we switch from heavy layers to light fabrics, we embrace the freshness of garden-grown foods.

At the beginning of planting season, I crave the flavors of herbs, and I can’t wait to use them in abundance, in everything. Their flavors are flamboyant, and they need very little coaxing to bring out their best.

Dried herbs are great all winter long and for heavier, long-slow cooked dishes. But some herbs- dried basil, tarragon, parsley, and chives-lose their unique pungency and do not taste as sprightly when dried. I recommend those herbs always be used fresh. Fresh herbs are perfect snipped, torn, lightly chopped, and barely sauteed before being added to a dish. They demand so little attention and yet bring a wallop of flavor.

Fresh herbs like parsley, basil, dill, lavender, garlic, and rosemary boast health benefits like treating indigestion, and helping to prevent and manage heart disease, cancer, and diabetes. Many herbs help reduce the instance of blood clots and have anti-inflammatory properties. Using herbs daily can pack as much nutrition as eating leafy greens. Many herbs contain polyphenols, compounds that have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Dried herbs add flavor, but their health benefits are greatly diminished.

I love fresh herbs and using them in everything, but I hate buying them. So, I grow my own all year long. In the summer, I have planters, and much of my yard is reserved for herbs and vegetables. In the winter, I use an indoor growing system as well as window planters. Apartment and condominium dwellers can enjoy fresh herbs with some indoor farming. Many herbs require only a small planter and a window. You would be amazed at how even a small amount of fresh parsley can enliven a dish.

To store fresh herbs, I like to wash and dry them before refrigeration. I carefully swish herbs in water and dry them on a kitchen towel. I then wrap them in a damp (not soaking wet) paper towel and in reusable bags. Then they are placed in the fridge on the top shelf; herbs do better in the warmest part of the fridge.

For basil, I place the stems in a glass and keep it on my kitchen counter for a few days. Basil leaves will turn black when they are too cold. To use fresh parsley, basil, dill, and cilantro, pick or cut the leaves off the stems and just give the leaves a rough chop. For thyme and rosemary, strip the leaves off the stems, but save the stems. Those stems have a ton of flavor and are big flavor boosters when added to sauces and stocks. For delicate herbs like chervil and tarragon, you can just cut the whole sprig-stem and leaf included-to add to your recipes.

There is something so tempting about a bright green shower of herbs dotting a dish. Fresh herbs taste like sunshine on a meadow. They are fresh, grassy, potent, and just delicious. The possibilities for adding flavor to your favorite recipes are endless. I hope you find these recipes inspirational and encourage you to grow and incorporate herbs in your daily cooking.

Savory Dutch Baby with Herb Salad, Goat Cheese and Smoked Salmon

Dutch Baby Pancakes or Dutch Puff Cakes are like a Yorkshire Pudding. The technique is simple. Custard is poured into a pre-heated (very hot!) pan with a small amount of fat (butter or olive oil), and then baked at a high temperature until set.

Once cooked, the puffy, sizzling showstopper comes to the table garnished, the hollow center stuffed with tempting goodies-crumbles of goat cheese, smoked salmon, and a refreshing herb salad. Yum!

I love this light and poofy concoction for brunch, lunch, or a light supper. The batter comes together in 5 minutes and the whole thing bakes in about 15-20 minutes.

Master the technique, and riff to your heart’s content! This Dutch Baby will be stunning, later this summer, with heirloom tomatoes, fresh basil, and mozzarella for a Caprese Baby… or with fresh, local corn, spices, and cheese for an Elote Baby. A dessert version-with fresh berries, lavender and lemon juice-would be gorgeous. You can see how fun and versatile this recipe is! This recipe will be your new go-to when you want a quick, fun and family friendly meal. I love this recipe for Mother’s Day and will be serving it for my family.

Yields 1 10-inch pancake

For the Dutch Baby

3 eggs

2/3 cup milk or alternative milk

Pinch of sea salt

½ cup all-purpose flour

Pinch of sugar

4 tablespoons butter or extra virgin olive oil

This recipe is easily doubled for a crowd; preheat 2 pans if you double the recipe.

1. Heat oven to 400°F.

2. Place a 10-inch skillet in the oven to preheat while you make the batter.

3. Whisk together eggs, milk, and salt until foamy.

4. Add flour and sugar. Whisk until combined.

5. When the pan is very hot, working quickly, add butter or oil and swirl around the pan to coat. Pour batter into the pan and return to the oven immediately. Set a time for 15 minutes.

6. At the 15-minute mark, check your pancake; if the batter is set and golden brown, it is finished cooking. If not, set the timer for another 2 minutes.

7. Gently slide the pancake onto a serving platter.

For the Herb Salad

½ cup arugula leaves (arugula is an herb)

½ cup flat leaf parsley leaves

2 tablespoons chopped chives

2 tablespoons chopped dill

2 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil

2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

Pinch of sea salt and cracked black pepper

4 ounces smoked salmon, coarsely chopped

3 ounces of goat cheese

1. Toss arugula, parsley, chives, and dill with olive oil and lemon juice, season with salt and pepper.

2. Arrange salmon on the pancake and top with herb salad. Crumble goat cheese over the salad and serve.

Lavender-Blueberry Limeade Spritz

I see lavender growing in many gardens. Lavender is beautiful; it’s great for pollinators, but a deterrent for garden pests. I wonder how many gardeners cook with lavender.

Too much lavender can be perfumy, but just the amount can be haunting and mysterious. Lavender plays well with bright citrus flavors and berries. From relieving headaches and to insomnia to reducing inflammation, lavender is a beautiful, powerhouse member of the mint family.

For the Lavender-infused Simple Syrup

2 cups water

2 cups sugar

¼ cup fresh lavender buds

1. Simmer water, sugar and lavender until sugar has dissolved.

2. Cover and allow lavender to steep for 30 minutes.

3. Strain out lavender buds.

4. Cool syrup before using

This syrup can be stored, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 3 months.

For the Limeade

2 cups fresh squeezed lime juice

1 cup fresh or frozen blueberries

1 cup Lavender Simple Syrup

1 cup sparkling water, or Prosecco for a cocktail

1. In a blender, process lime juice, blueberries, and syrup until smooth.

2. Divide limeade into individual serving glasses.

3. Add ice and top with sparkling water or Prosecco.

Greener Goddess

I love this all-purpose condiment; it’s a dip, dressing, schmear, sauce, topper, and garnish. Sure, you can buy it, but why? Easy to make, and with ingredients you choose, you can customize to your palate and with the ingredients you have on hand.

I love my version of the classic 1920s recipe. I add fresh avocado for extra richness and the gorgeous green color. I also add lots of fresh lemon juice and zest, plus a splash of red wine vinegar; I like the extra hit of acid to balance the rich mayo and yogurt.

½ cup mayonnaise

½ cup yogurt (whole milk works best)

1 ripe avocado

Zest of 1 lemon + 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

2 cloves garlic

6 scallions

2 anchovy filets

1 dash of hot sauce

1 cup fresh basil leaves

1 cup fresh parsley leaves

¼ cup tarragon leaves

¼ cup fresh dill

Sea salt to taste

Fresh cracked black pepper to taste

1. In a food processor, add mayo, yogurt, avocado, zest and juice, vinegar, garlic, scallions, anchovies, hot sauce, basil parsley, tarragon, dill, salt, and pepper.

2. Pulse until smooth and creamy.

Serve over wedge salad, or with crudites… or dollop on gazpacho, serve with grilled fish and veggies, and more! Store leftover Greener Goddess, covered, in the fridge for up to 5 days.

Maitre d’ Hotel Butter (Herbed Butter)

The fancy-sounding compound butter is a great little ingredient to add to your big-flavor arsenal. The name means “master of the hotel”; the head waiter would blend his or her special recipe as a finishing butter for dishes. This handy topper will dress up a piece of fish, take vegetables from just fine to stellar, and show off your sourdough in the manner it truly deserves.

2 sticks unsalted butter, at room temperature

Zest of 1 lemon + 2 teaspoons lemon juice

¼ cup chopped parsley (or dill, basil, tarragon, chervil, thyme or combination)

1 clove garlic, grated on a microplane

1 teaspoon sea salt

½ teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper

1. Mix butter, lemon zest, and juice, parsley, garlic, salt, and pepper together.

2. Transfer mixture to a sheet of parchment paper and roll to form a tight log.

3. Chill until firm before slicing and topping your favorite dish.

Leftover herbed butter can be stored in the freezer for up to 2 months.