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Not your grandmother’s latkes

What follows are three Chanukah recipes to make at home, each offering a twist on the usual Chanukah fare. The recipes are courtesy of Chef Laura Frankel, Wolfgang Puck Catering, Spertus Institute of Jewish Studies, and are adapted from her cookbook “Jewish Cooking for All Seasons” (John Wiley and Sons Inc., 2006).

Arancini di farro

Farro is a primitive grain that has been cultivated since Neolithic times. It resembles a cross between barley and Arborio rice (risotto). Its other name is Emmer wheat. When cooked, it is creamy and starchy like risotto, but with a barley-like flavor and texture. Arancini are a southern Italian specialty meaning “little oranges.” This refers to their small, round shape. I like the idea of using farro for this twist on Chanukah. We are paying respect to ancient traditions, and using an ancient grain helps us to recall the culinary traditions of our past. Farro is now grown almost exclusively in Italy and can be purchased in specialty health food stores, online and in Italian grocery stores.

8 ounces of farro
4-6 cups chicken stock or water
1 cup shredded braised short ribs or brisket (see recipe below). Shredded leftover brisket works well for this.
2 tablespoons flat leaf parsley, chopped
1 teaspoon fresh thyme, chopped
3 eggs
2 cups bread crumbs
Extra Virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste

1. Rinse the farro under running water to remove any loose husks. Place the farro in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add 4 cups of water and boil for 15 minutes. Lower the heat, cover the pan and cook the farro until tender, thick and creamy (a wooden spoon should almost stand up in it), about 45 minutes. Salt and pepper the farro at this point. If the farro seems too “hard,” add the remaining water and continue cooking until done. Remove the pan from the heat. Place the farro in a shallow dish. Cover the dish and refrigerate the farro until completely cold.
2. Place the shredded meat in a bowl and add the parsley, thyme and salt and pepper to taste.
3. Scoop the farro with a tablespoon and roll into a small ball. With your finger, push a small indentation into the ball. Place a small amount of the meat mixture into the farro and close the opening by rolling the ball between your palms. Set aside and continue until all the farro is used.
4. Beat the eggs in a small bowl. Place the bread crumbs in a shallow bowl. Place a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Heat the oil to approximately 350 degrees. Take a ball and dip it into the eggs, then roll it into the breadcrumbs.

Place the ball on a separate plate. When you have about 6-8 balls, place them into the oil and fry until golden brown. Remove the balls and place on a plate lined with paper towels. Continue with the rest of the balls. The arancini will stay crispy for several hours at room temperature.

Braised short ribs in tomato red wine gravy

3 lbs. short ribs or square-cut flanken
2 Spanish onions, chopped
6 cloves garlic, chopped
2 carrots, peeled and chopped
2 ribs of celery, chopped
1 cup dry red wine
1 cup chicken stock
1 15-oz. can plum tomatoes, crushed with your hands
3 tablespoons tomato paste
Salt and pepper

1. Bring a large sauce pan with water to boil. Blanch the short ribs for 5 minutes (this helps to remove the fat). Remove the short ribs and pat dry.
2. Brown the short ribs in batches over medium heat in a pan lightly coated with olive oil. Remove the short ribs and place in a Dutch oven or casserole. Brown the vegetables in the same pan and add them to the short ribs.
3. Add the remaining ingredients. Cover and braise for 3 hours or until the meat is very tender. Remove the short ribs from the pan. Strain out the vegetables. Reduce the braising liquid until it measures ½ cup and is very thick. Adjust seasoning.

Chef Laura’s latkes

I like really crispy latkes that are slightly creamy inside. I don’t use yolks in my batter, as egg yolks make doughs and batters tender. Egg whites hold the ingredients together but don’t make the latke soft or cakey. I want a latke that is crunchy and holds up to either sour cream or my cranberry/apple sauce, and lots of it!

2 lbs. Russet potatoes, peeled and shredded (after shredding the potatoes, place them in a large bowl with ice water, so they won’t oxidize and turn rust-colored)
1 large Spanish onion, peeled and grated
3 egg whites, beaten with a whisk until frothy
3 tablespoons flour
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 teaspoon fresh cracked pepper

1. Place the shredded potatoes in a large clean towel and squeeze out all the moisture; make sure the potatoes are completely dry.
2. Place all the remaining ingredients in a large bowl and add the potatoes. Mix all the ingredients together until thoroughly combined.
3. Heat a large skillet with 1-½ inches of oil. Drop spoonfuls of latke batter into the oil. Flatten them slightly with the back of a spoon. Brown the latkes on both sides. Remove to a platter lined with paper towels.
4. To reheat: Place the latkes on a cookie sheet and heat in a 400 degree oven until hot.

Cranberry/apple sauce

This is a beautiful garnet-colored, tart applesauce. It is a perfect complement for the crispy latkes.

6 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored and chopped
1 cup fresh or frozen cranberries
½ cup brown sugar
1 whole cinnamon stick
½ cup apple cider or juice
Pinch of salt

1. Place all the ingredients in a medium saucepan. Cook uncovered over medium heat until the cranberries pop. Continue cooking until the excess moisture evaporates. Remove the cinnamon stick and stir to combine. The applesauce may be stored covered in the refrigerator for up to one week or frozen for up to 2 months.

Posted: 11/29/2007 1:01:12 PM

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